Lidia's Mother's Day Breakfast: Fried Potatoes and Eggs, Crostata, Soft Polenta, and Chocolate Soup
Lidia's Mother's Day Lunch: Baked Stuffed Shells and Salad of Dandelion Greens with Almond Vinaigrette and Dried Ricotta
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In my family--and my family is a big Italian family--the central event of every holiday is the family meal. There's always a lot of cooking at these affairs and plenty of good food, but, even in the best of circumstances, I always spend too much time in the kitchen.
There is, however, one exception to the holiday rule and that is Mother's Day. We have four generations in my family--my mother lives with us, and my children and grandchildren live nearby. On Mother's Day, they all come to visit me at my house and they shower me with kisses, flowers and lots of help in the kitchen. In fact, it's the tradition to make me a big Mother's Day breakfast, featuring favorite recipes like fried potatoes and eggs, soft polenta, crostatas and chocolate soup. Once lunchtime comes around, I have to admit that I do get into the kitchen with the children because I love it so much. Food is love and that's how I show it to my mother and the rest of the family.
So whether you want to celebrate Mother's Day with a great Italian breakfast or lunch for your mother, here are some great recipes to enjoy with your family!
LIDIA'S MOTHER'S DAY BREAKFAST: Fried Potatoes and Eggs, Crostata, Soft Polenta, and Chocolate Soup
Fried Potatoes and Eggs
Patate Fritte con Uova
This recipe serves two, but it can easily be doubled or cut in half.
Potatoes and eggs cooked like this are best when prepared from start to
end in the same pan, so the potatoes stay crispy and hot. You might want
to do one panful at a time the first time you try this recipe, but once
you eat this, I guarantee it will become a favorite and soon you'll get
the knack of working two pans at once. Serve for breakfast, or as lunch
with a salad.
1 medium Idaho potato (about 8 ounces)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon fresh rosemary leaves
4 large eggs
Salt (preferably sea salt)
Freshly ground black pepper
Makes 2 servings
Peel the potato and cut it in half crosswise. Stand the halves cut side
down and cut into 1/4-inch slices, then cut the slices into 1/4-inch
strips. Divide the oil between two 8-inch nonstick or well-seasoned
skillets and heat over medium-high heat. (If you don't have two such
pans, cook the potatoes and eggs one serving at a time.) Divide the
potatoes between the pans of oil and cook, shaking the pans and turning
the potatoes as necessary, until they are golden on all sides, about 6
minutes. Hold the potatoes in place with a slotted spoon or wire skimmer
while you pour off all but about 1 or 2 teaspoons of oil from each
skillet. Return the skillets to the heat, sprinkle half the rosemary
leaves over each, and toss well. Break two eggs into each pan. Season
generously with salt and pepper, and mix the potatoes and eggs together
with a fork until the egg is cooked to your liking. Serve hot.
Fruit Jam Tartlet Cookies
Crostata
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 12 pieces, plus more for the baking sheet
1 large egg yolk
1/4 cup ice water, or as needed
1 1/2 cups chunky apricot, cherry, peach, or plum preserves
Makes 36 cookies
Stir 1 1/2 cups flour, sugar, and baking powder together in a mixing
bowl. Drop in the butter and toss to coat with the flour mixture. Using
the tips of your fingers, rub the butter into the flour until the pieces
of butter resemble small corn flakes. (Work quickly, to keep the butter
as firm as possible.) Beat the egg yolk and 1/4 cup ice water in a
separate, small bowl until blended. Drizzle over the flour-butter
mixture and toss just until you have a rough dough. Don't overmix. If
there are some pieces of unmoistened dough, drizzle more ice water,
about 1teaspoon at a time, over the dough, and toss lightly to mix. Turn
out onto a work surface and knead lightly a few times, just to gather
the dough into a ball. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic wrap, and
refrigerate at least 1 hour or up to 1 day.
Lightly butter a 9 x 13-inch baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Cut off and set aside one-third of the dough. Roll out the remaining
two-thirds of the dough on a lightly floured surface to a 10 x 14-inch
rectangle. (Don't worry if it's not perfectly shaped--you'll have a
chance to patch the dough.) Flour the surface lightly, as necessary to
keep the dough from sticking. Transfer the dough to the prepared pan,
covering the bottom completely and pressing the dough along the sides.
Trim any overhanging dough, and use the pieces to patch any holes and
gaps. Spoon the preserves in an even layer over the dough. Roll out the
remaining dough to a circle about 10 inches in diameter. Cut the dough
into 1/2-inch strips. Form a lattice pattern over the preserves with the
strips of dough by arranging half of them diagonally, then laying the
second half of the dough strips perpendicular to the first. Bake until
the dough is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove, and cool completely
before cutting into squares. Crostate can be stored in an airtight
container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
Soft Polenta
Polenta Morbida
Traditionally, we made polenta with coarse-grain cornmeal and cooked
it for 40 minutes or even longer. Today, there is instant polenta, which
cooks up nicely in about 15 minutes from start to end. I'm introducing
you to polenta by cooking instant polenta; once you master the instant,
you can move on to the traditional coarse polenta and you'll notice the
difference in texture.
Polenta is unbelievably versatile. I could give you a thousand ways to
enjoy it, because that's how many ways we ate it while we were growing
up. It is delicious poured into a bowl and served as is, or allowed to
chill and sliced, at which point you can grill or fry it for the next
day's meal. You can even make a "mosaic" by folding diced cooked
vegetables into the soft polenta, packing it into a loaf pan while it is
still warm, then allowing it to chill. When you cut the chilled loaf
into slices, the vegetables will form a mosaic and make an even prettier
presentation when cooked.
2 fresh or dried bay leaves
1 tablespoon coarse salt, or as needed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 1/2 cups "instant" polenta
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Makes 6 servings
Bring a kettle filled with about 4 cups of water to a boil, then lower
the heat to very low and keep warm. Bring 4 cups water to a boil in a 3-
to 4-quart heavy saucepan. Toss in the bay leaves and 1 tablespoon salt
and stir in the olive oil.
Working with a small handful of the cornmeal at a time, let it fall
through your fingers into the boiling seasoned water, while stirring
constantly with a wooden spoon. (Pay special attention to the corners as
you stir; it is there that the polenta will stick and scorch first.) It
should take about 5 minutes to add all the cornmeal.
When all the cornmeal is added, the mixture should be smooth and thick
and begin to perk like a little volcano. Lower the heat so the polenta
continues to perk slowly, and cook, stirring constantly, until it is
smooth and shiny, about 5 minutes. If at any point during the cooking
the polenta becomes too thick to stir easily, add some of the water from
the kettle--about 1/2 cup--to loosen the consistency a little. It is
possible that you will not need to add all the water in the kettle
before the cornmeal is tender. The polenta is ready to serve at this
point, or you can choose to cook it an extra minute or two, to intensify
the flavor.
Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the butter and cheese, and pour
into a ceramic serving bowl. Let the polenta stand for up to 10 minutes
before serving. The longer the polenta stands, the firmer its texture
will be.
Chocolate Soup
Zuppa al Cioccolato
5 cups milk
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, grated or chopped fine
2 tablespoons sugar
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Ground cinnamon
Brioche or panettone, torn into pieces, or hard buttery cookies
Makes 6 servings
Stir 1/2 cup of the milk and the flour together in a small bowl until
smooth. Bring the remaining 4 1/2 cups milk just to the simmer in a
medium saucepan over medium heat. Ladle 1 cup of the simmering milk over
the chocolate in a heatproof bowl, let sit a minute, then whisk to
dissolve the chocolate. Stir the chocolate mixture into the simmering
milk. Strain the flour mixture into the saucepan, then stir in the
sugar, butter, and cinnamon. Return to a simmer and cook, stirring,
until thickened and smooth, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and
let stand a minute or two. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Pass the
brioche, panettone, or cookies for dunking separately.
LIDIA'S MOTHER'S DAY LUNCH: Baked Stuffed Shells and Salad of Dandelion Greens with Almond Vinaigrette and Dried Ricotta
Baked Stuffed Shells
Conchiglie Ripiene al Forno
A pound of "jumbo" pasta shells contains about thirty-six. This
recipe makes enough filling for about thirty shells, so it's likely
you'll have a few extra shells, which may come in handy, as some shells
break in the box or during cooking. Be sure to cook the shells very al
dente before filling them, or they will tear when you try to stuff them.
Individual servings of stuffed shells make an impressive presentation.
If you have enough individual baking dishes, divide the shells and sauce
among them, then top with cheese, keeping in mind that you might need a
little more cheese to top individual servings than is called for in the
recipe.
1 1/2 pounds fresh ricotta or packaged whole-milk ricotta
One 35-ounce can peeled Italian plum tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
Salt
1 pound fresh mozzarella cheese
1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
Freshly ground white pepper
1 large egg
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper
10 fresh basil leaves
1 pound jumbo pasta shells
Makes 6 servings (about 5 stuffed shells for each serving)
Place the ricotta in a cheesecloth-lined sieve and set the sieve over a
bowl. Cover the ricotta with plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator
for at least 8 hours or up to one day. Discard the liquid in the bowl.
Pass the tomatoes through a food mill fitted with the fine disc. (If you
don't have a food mill, seed the tomatoes and place them in a food
processor. Process the tomatoes, using quick on/off pulses, until they
are finely ground. Don't overprocess, or you'll incorporate air into the
tomatoes and change their texture and color.) Meanwhile, bring 6 quarts
of salted water to a boil in an 8-quart pot over high heat.
Slice half the mozzarella thin and cut the remaining half into 1/4-inch
cubes. Turn the drained ricotta into a mixing bowl. Mix in the
mozzarella cubes, grated cheese, and parsley. Season to taste with salt
and white pepper. Beat the egg well and stir it into the ricotta
mixture.
Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Scatter the
garlic over the oil and cook, shaking the pan, until golden brown, about
2 minutes. Lower the tomatoes close to the skillet and carefully pour
them into the skillet. Add the crushed red pepper and season lightly
with salt. Bring the sauce to a quick boil, then adjust the heat to
simmering. Cook until the sauce is lightly thickened, about 30 minutes.
Stir the basil into the sauce a few minutes before it is done.
Meanwhile, stir the shells into the boiling water. Return to a boil,
stirring frequently. Cook the pasta, semi-covered, stirring
occasionally, until softened but still quite firm, about 7 minutes. Fish
the shells out of the water with a large skimmer and carefully lower
them into a bowl of cold water. Drain them carefully.
Preheat the oven to 425° F. Line the bottom of a 15 x 10-inch baking
dish with about 3/4 cup of the tomato sauce. Spoon about 2 tablespoons
of the ricotta mixture into each shell. The shell should be filled to
capacity but not overstuffed. Nestle the shells next to each other in
the baking dish as you fill them. Spoon the remaining sauce over the
shells, coating each one. Arrange the slices of mozzarella in an even
layer over the shells. Bake until the mozzarella is browned and
bubbling, about 25 minutes. Remove, and let stand 5 minutes before
serving.
Salad of Dandelion Greens with Almond Vinaigrette and Dried Ricotta
Insalata di Dente di Leone con Vinaigrette di Mandorle e Ricotta Salata
We found the greens for this salad by foraging in the woods and
fields. You can forage farmers' markets for tender young dandelion
greens, purslane, wild fennel, and pea shoots to make a tasty salad.
Even your refrigerator or kitchen garden might yield some goodies, like
chives, tender young Italian parsley, thinly sliced red cabbage, or the
yellow leaves from celery hearts. Chicory is also a good substitute for
dandelion greens.
1 pound tender, young dandelion greens (about 10 loosely packed cups)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup sliced almonds, toasted
2 tablespoons red-wine vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1Ú4 pound ricotta salata, cut into shards with a vegetable peeler
Makes 6 servings
Cut any tough stems from the greens and trim any wilted, yellow, or
tough leaves. Wash and dry them according to directions on page 67. The
greens can be prepared up to several hours in advance and kept, loosely
covered with a clean towel, in the refrigerator.
To make the dressing, combine the olive oil, 2 tablespoons of the
toasted almonds, vinegar, and honey in a blender and blend until smooth.
Add salt and pepper to taste. Place the greens in a large bowl, season
them with salt and pepper, and pour the dressing over them. Toss well
and divide the dressed greens among six plates, mounding them in the
center of the plate. Sprinkle with the remaining 2 tablespoons of
toasted almonds and top with shavings of ricotta salata. Serve
immediately.
Excerpted from Lidia's Italian-American Kitchen by
Lidia Matticchio Bastianich
Copyright 2001 by Lidia Matticchio Bastianich. Excerpted by
permission of Knopf,
a division of Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt
may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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