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Dear cooks, Sometimes I get so caught up in ornate recipes that I forget about the importance of mastering a basic. So often I'll consider something like the humble loaf of bread a mere platform for a showpiece recipe, rather than the main act. This month, the Borzoi Cooks and I returned to James Beard's classic Beard on Bread, whose subtitle says it all: "My 100 favorite recipes with variations / Everything you need to know about breadmaking." The breads in this cookbook, and the lovely line drawings that illustrate the recipes, are timeless. Why not take a day to reacquaint yourself with the pleasures of breadmaking? Try the oatmeal bread recipe below, and appreciate the tactility of the process. Relax and wait for the dough to rise. At the end of the day, be rewarded with a warm, fragrant loaf of bread. Happy baking,
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