Although all my recipes are cooked in my kitchen and therefore come from it, the kitchen on the cover of Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen is not, alas, mine. It’s far bigger for one, and has all sorts of things that mine doesn’t, such as a sunny window over the sink.

If you’re curious about the true DM kitchen, it is featured in this month’s (May) issue of Saveur. You’ll see that it’s pretty tiny, and pretty colorful. I really like my little kitchen, but when I was done with the photographs and the interview, I began to think that a big kitchen would be okay, too. Not that one is likely to emerge. I think I’ll be cooking these 108 odd square feet for a quite a while yet.

My brother, Mike Madison, is a farmer who sells mainly flowers at the Davis, California farmers’ market. He has lots of time when he’s hoeing, repairing drip tape, or planting thousands of bulbs, to write in his head. What’s unusual about Mike is that he has made time to put those thoughts on . His book, called Blithe Tomato, it is a wry and often amusing collection of short essays about what farmers encounter as they plan and plant, water and harvest, then finally sell at the farmers’ market. It will make you laugh and groan in succession. And doubly appreciate what it takes to bring a tomato to market.

Blithe Tomato is something of a family affair: my husband, Patrick McFarlin, illustrated it and I wrote the foreward. It’s a must-read for anyone who has an interest in cooking and eating and is curious about what exactly it’s like to be a small-scale family farmer.

Blithe Tomato is published by Great Valley Books Heyday Press in Berkeley, California.

I’m thrilled to introduce you to my new book, Vegetable Soups From Deborah Madison’s Kitchen, which came out on February 7. Of course it the recipes were developed, tested and photographed a year ago, but that’s just long enough to make everything in the book look new and fresh again. Thumbing through it, I am reminded of what a pleasure it was to make all those soups. But I’m also reminded of what fun it was to photograph them. Laurie Smith, my photographer, and I were extremely fortunate to have full use of my neighbor, David Snyder’s, lush garden of flowers and vegetables, but also his wife Vicki’s extensive collection of pieces by contemporary ceramic artists. Vicki Snyder is herself a fine potter and the year before any film was shot, we had talked about using some of the dishes in her collection. Vegetable Soups shows a mixed collection of dishes that includes, in addition to those made by fine contemporary artists, a few lovely old French antiques, some inexpensive bowls from World Market and, as always, the gorgeous ceramic folk art bowls from my friend, Judith Espinar’s store, The Clay Angel.

Clay is earth, so dishes as well as plants come from the same source. I’m just as excited about what will hold a finished soup as I am about the ingredients that go to make it. To me dishes are the spark that sets off whatever we’ve taken the time to prepare. They are as essential as salt and pepper and are also the ultimate finishing touch whether the dish is soup, a salad, or a dessert. Accordingly I was honored to dedicate this book to Vicki and Judith, two women who have a keen eye and hand for those dishes, which enhance our foods and provide a feast for the eye as well as the tongue.

I hope you’ll find these soups as enjoyable to make as I did, and that you’ll discover some wonderful dishes of your own. Soup is a nourishing, good, food to eat and one of the prettiest foods as well. It’s also perhaps the easiest dishes to make. Just remember that in spite of measurements that are there in the recipes, you always have to keep your own watchful eye open and be ready to add more liquid should yours boil away, more salt if you like food salty or less if you don’t, and as always, a pinch or two, if not a handful, of your own good ideas.

To your health — sip and enjoy!
Deborah

It’s great to have a moment when we can wipe the slate clean and declare a new beginning. One of the good things about the advent of a New Year is that it gives us a push to take stock not only of our lives, but our refrigerator. This yearly ritual doesn’t have to happen on the first. The third of January will do and so will the fourth. Even the 24th will be a good time to take a good look at what’s inside that big cold box. You may be amazed at what you find. It can be positively archeological, with jars of condiments recalling gifts and parties received and given, shriveled cheeses pointing to our forgetfulness, or our absence. Here’s what I found in my refrigerator. You will no doubt have your own equivalent treasures:

* One big jar of brine with 3 olives floating in it; another with 4 cornichons

* Two half-used bottles of tonic water. True, they were still fizzy, but does that mean I want to have a gin and tonic right now? It’s January, not July! Out they go.

* Three opened bottles of hot-sauce, two of jerk sauce, which to my knowledge I have never used, and two jars of chutney. One of the chutneys has been opened for over two years.

* I was happy to find and bottle of expensive pumpkin seed oil, something I was just about to buy. I didn’t know I had it.

* And I was thrilled to find a big jar of apricot jam that I made the last summer when we had apricots, and there wasn’t even a speck of mold on it! That was a blessing.

* What about that bag of Parmesan cheese rinds, the very ones I tell you to save for soups? The problem is I forget to use them. Since I already have a bag in the freezer these will be designated as dog treats.

* A big container of last year’s Medjool dates, which I just replaced with new expensive ones because I’d forgotten they were there, is an embarrassment. I promise to steam them and make my chocolate date cake.

* As for those obscure and mysterious jars of who knows what— is it salad dressing? A marinade? If I haven’t a clue, out they go. Ditto for the ounce of wheat germ that’s been lingering in its plastic bag for the better part of the year, or some obscure flour I bought at a farmers’ market but forgot to label—a reminder that we don’t remember what we’ve got so label it!

I wipe down all the shelves and surfaces with hot, soapy water. I rinse out the bins and plunk some tinfoil onto the shelves where I store oils and condiments, as they tend to leak and get sticky. The vanilla beans I discovered in the cheese bin join the ones in the bin that’s designated for grains, dried fruits and vanilla beans. The nuts are all in one place now instead of three. I’ve sniffed at each bag of flour and tossed out those that don’t smell fresh. Now I have considerably more space than I had before, both in my refrigerator and in my mind. The plastic shines and the metal glistens. Everything is in its place and I can actually see the contents of my refrigerator. Food suddenly seems simple. Easy. Even pure. I make a mental note to use what’s there and so that this feeling will stay for a while. Invariably it will vanish into the inevitable chaos, but then, the equinoxes and solstices are other good times for this particular exercise.

… And Your Herb Shelf

If you’re inspired by the results of your refrigerator encounter, you might do the same for your spice shelf. I just did and as always, it was a revelation. Three containers of coriander? Two of epazote? Why? Where did they come from? When did I last use them?

Did you know that after a while all those leafy dried things like tarragon, basil and marjoram, smell exactly alike, which is to say, like nothing? Open each jar and take a whiff. If you’re clueless as to the content, throw it out. I don’t like to waste food, but if there’s something I didn’t use for the last year, I get rid of it. I probably won’t use it this year either. Herbs and spices don’t go bad, but they do fade away and lose their zest. Don’t just keep them around — they’ll be very happy in the compost and your food will taste better with fresh replacements. May I suggest making an order with Penzey’s Spice House? And buy the smaller amounts then replace them as you use them up.

With a clean cupboard with more space you might just be able to see what you have and use it while it’s fresh and full of flavor, which is the best way to go, both for you and your herbs and spices.

All best wishes for a clean and shining bright New Year!

Deborah

Every year I get a lot of questions about what to serve for Thanksgiving, if you’re a vegetarian. Having thought about this some, I do have some ideas and different approaches one might take to this meal.

The first one is to relax and remember this is a day for expressing thanks, being with friends and family, and sharing a meal. If Thanksgiving (or any other holiday) is just too much to deal with, there’s always the option of helping to cook a meal for others through one of the nations many food banks and shelters. This can be a very satisfying way to spend the day. Or you can make an utterly simple but delicious meal. One year my family couldn’t really deal with cooking a Thanksgiving meal so we grilled sausages in the backyard then had an indoor picnic. It was great! The main thing was that we all managed to get together.

What people usually want to know is what to do about the turkey question. Do you cook a “tofurky?” Not I. I’d sooner eat the real thing. Frankly, I think there are so many good foods to eat that don’t mimic meat, I’m not inclined to go for pretend, but many people like to do that. Either way, what to eat doesn’t need to be a big issue especially if you and your family take the groaning board approach. Given a table that’s loaded up with every dish you can imagine on it, vegetarians are home free-just leave off the turkey.

A more modern, tightly designed menu served to a small group might present some other challenges, but if it’s a holiday, I’d guess that you’re among friends who know your food inclinations and will happily oblige you with something suitable to eat. If not, you might just graciously eat what’s offered.

If you’re giving the party, you might find that this is the perfect time to spend extra time on a more elaborate dish than you’d normally make, such as hand-made squash ravioli. Perhaps this is the time to splurge on a ingredient, such as fresh wild mushrooms for a mushroom ragout, or a cheese plate of special American farmstead or raw-milk cheeses, or great wines. It’s certainly not a time for using 1% milk. If you make a celery root and potato gratin, use cream! And please, no paper plates! Setting a beautiful table is a part of the meal, too.

One of my favorite vegetarian entrees, which I think would be perfect for a focused Thanksgiving menu is “Braised Root Vegetables with Black Lentils and a Red Wine Sauce”, which I serve with Yukon Gold potato puree. This is from my book, Local Flavors, and it is a really gorgeous dish; the red wine sauce is very concentrated and deep, it uses a variety of vegetables that are in season, and you’ll want to serve it in dish by itself, keeping salads and other foods as separate courses. You can also make parts of it ahead of time which takes the pressure off the day.

You could also take the Local Food approach and make a meal to celebrate the foods that come from your region. This could include more than just vegetables and fruits -think of grains, nuts, cheeses, cider, wine-whatever your area produces. It can be quite a wonderful experience to sit down to a completely local or regional meal, especially when you can say where each food is from and even who grew or produced it. It’s important to bring the riches of our own geographical areas into view and celebrate what the land and people near us can produce, and what better time than Thanksgiving? (Actually, every day is a good day to do this!)

Another way to think about a Thanksgiving menu would be to seek out foods that are native to America, such as Tuscarora white corn, Jerusalem artichokes, real wild rice that is hand-gathered and parched, tepary beans from Southern Arizona, wild persimmons in a persimmon pudding, heirloom apples and pears, shagbark hickory nuts, Amish pie pumpkin, and so on. If you’re not sure what these foods are, you can find out by going to slowfoodusa.org and looking at the Ark of Taste where you’ll find a list of foods that are an important part of our food heritage but are in danger of disappearing. For many you can find the sources for, too.

And if, per chance, you are going to have turkey, consider one of the amazing old breeds of turkeys, also listed on the Ark, which are hearty, vital birds that are truly a part of our heritage.

In the meantime, here are some dishes from some of my books that I think can work very nicely in a vegetarian holiday menu, but do plan on sharing them with everyone at the table!

I will be in Ireland until the end of the year and will probably celebrate by having something to drink that is very warming, but I hope you all enjoy a slow and convivial holiday!

Deborah

From Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen
Feather Fritters with spaghetti squash and a tomato sauce, p. 85
Cabbage Parcels with sweet-sour tomato sauce, p.157
Winter Squash Lasagne with sage, walnuts, and black kale, p. 58
Dried Porcini and Fresh Mushroom Tart, p.10

The Greens Cookbook
Many Layered Crepe Cake, p. 272
Corn, Bean and Pumpkin Stew, p. 218 (for a Southwest regional meal)
Potatoes and Chanterelles Baked in Cream, p. 210
Mushroom Lasagne, using wild mushrooms, page l86

Local Flavors, Cooking and Eating from America’s Farmers’ Markets
Braised root Vegetables with Black Lentils and a Red Wine Sauce served with Yukon Gold potato puree, page 223
Sweet Potatoes Roasted in a Wood Fire, page 220
Quince with Smoked Fish, Scallions and Crème Fraiche, page 244
Savory Custard with Caramelized Onions and Smoked Cheese, page 239
Spaghetti Squash Gratin with Chantrelles, page 154

Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone
Wild Mushroom Risotto, page 552
Any of the savory galettes such as Winter Squash Galette or the Leek and Goat Cheese Galette, pages 498-500
Butternut Squash Ravioli with Toasted Pecans and Sage, p. 472
Fettuccine with Gorgonzola for a first course, page 461
Celery Root and Potato Gratin (made with cream, of course), page 279
Brussels Sprouts and Walnuts with Fennel and Red Pearl Onions, page 344 -a great side dish, page 344
Winter Squash Flans with Greens and Red Wine-Shallot Sauce, p. 592

Last month I taped, for the first time, an interview about food—basically, where we’re going with it in our culture—for Orion Magazine. This is to accompany an article I wrote on Terra Madre, Slow Food’s big meeting of food producers that took place this past fall in Italy. Both will run this March. You can go to www.oriononline.org to hear the interview and read about Orion Magazine, which is a handsome and thought-provoking publication, one that I highly recommend.

In the meantime, I’m happy to announce that a new book is finally making its way into the world this month. Called Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen, it consists of recipes for the most challenging meal of the day: supper. Supper, or dinner, is a tough subject for both vegetarians and those having to cook for them, and I’ve long wanted to make a collection of recipes to answer the perennial question, “What’s for supper?” This book, finally, answers that question in 100 different ways. And it’s full of Laurie Smith’s lavish photographs to inspire you!

I see suppers as casual and free of the expectations that go along with dinner, especially a dinner party. But these recipes run a wide gambit, and some are absolutely suited for the more formal dinner (party or not), while others are what you might think of as family fare—the kind of thing you’d cook up for yourself but which others would gladly eat with you. Think of a fried egg sandwich, or Mashed Potatoes and Turnips with Sautéed Onions and Greens, or a Bare Bones Tofu Curry. But don’t forget that when you’ve the notion to think ahead to make some risotto, Lemony Risotto Croquettes (with slivered snow peas, asparagus and leeks) might be just the thing for a special Saturday night.

Here’s a preview taste of Vegetarian Suppers—a supper sandwich, one of my favorite end-of-the-day meals.

Braised Mixed Greens and garlicky beans on toast
Serves 3 to 4

Any mixture of greens can be spooned over garlic-rubbed toast, as it is here, pasta, or polenta. For wine, try a Spanish red, such as a Grenache-based Priorat wine or a Spanish white Alberinio.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for finishing
1 small onion, finely diced
2 plump garlic cloves, 1 slivered, 1 halved
1-pound greens, such as chard mixed with the tips and leaves of broccoli rabe, or a mix of small braising greens, washed and chopped
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
if available, a few leaves to a few handfuls sorrel, 5 or 6 lovage leaves, or a handful each of chopped cilantro and parsley
1 1/2 cups cooked beans (borlotti, cannellini, etc.), made from scratch or canned
3 to 4 slices chewy country bread
shaved Parmesan cheese or crumbled Gorgonzola

1. Heat the oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Once the starts to soften a bit, after 3 to 4 minutes, add the slivered garlic. Cook a minute more, and then add the greens and any herbs. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt.
2. As the greens cook down, turn them in the pan to bring the ones on top closer to the heat. Once they’ve all collapsed, add 1/2 cup water or bean broth, lower the heat, and cook, partially covered, until tender. Depending on the greens you’ve chosen, this could take as little as a few minutes or as long as twenty. Just make sure there’s some liquid in the pan, for in the end you’ll want a little sauce. When the greens are done, add the beans, heat them through, then taste for salt, and season with pepper.
3. Toast the bread and rub it with halved garlic. Arrange on plates and spoon the greens and beans over the top. Drizzle extra olive oil on top. Garnish with the cheese and serve.