In Season: March 2005

Friday, April 15, 2005

Last month I taped, for the first time, an interview about food—basically, where we’re going with it in our culture—for Orion Magazine. This is to accompany an article I wrote on Terra Madre, Slow Food’s big meeting of food producers that took place this past fall in Italy. Both will run this March. You can go to www.oriononline.org to hear the interview and read about Orion Magazine, which is a handsome and thought-provoking publication, one that I highly recommend.

In the meantime, I’m happy to announce that a new book is finally making its way into the world this month. Called Vegetarian Suppers from Deborah Madison’s Kitchen, it consists of recipes for the most challenging meal of the day: supper. Supper, or dinner, is a tough subject for both vegetarians and those having to cook for them, and I’ve long wanted to make a collection of recipes to answer the perennial question, “What’s for supper?” This book, finally, answers that question in 100 different ways. And it’s full of Laurie Smith’s lavish photographs to inspire you!

I see suppers as casual and free of the expectations that go along with dinner, especially a dinner party. But these recipes run a wide gambit, and some are absolutely suited for the more formal dinner (party or not), while others are what you might think of as family fare—the kind of thing you’d cook up for yourself but which others would gladly eat with you. Think of a fried egg sandwich, or Mashed Potatoes and Turnips with Sautéed Onions and Greens, or a Bare Bones Tofu Curry. But don’t forget that when you’ve the notion to think ahead to make some risotto, Lemony Risotto Croquettes (with slivered snow peas, asparagus and leeks) might be just the thing for a special Saturday night.

Here’s a preview taste of Vegetarian Suppers—a supper sandwich, one of my favorite end-of-the-day meals.

Braised Mixed Greens and garlicky beans on toast
Serves 3 to 4

Any mixture of greens can be spooned over garlic-rubbed toast, as it is here, pasta, or polenta. For wine, try a Spanish red, such as a Grenache-based Priorat wine or a Spanish white Alberinio.

1 tablespoon olive oil, plus extra for finishing
1 small onion, finely diced
2 plump garlic cloves, 1 slivered, 1 halved
1-pound greens, such as chard mixed with the tips and leaves of broccoli rabe, or a mix of small braising greens, washed and chopped
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
if available, a few leaves to a few handfuls sorrel, 5 or 6 lovage leaves, or a handful each of chopped cilantro and parsley
1 1/2 cups cooked beans (borlotti, cannellini, etc.), made from scratch or canned
3 to 4 slices chewy country bread
shaved Parmesan cheese or crumbled Gorgonzola

  1. Heat the oil in a large skillet or Dutch oven. Add the onion and cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Once the starts to soften a bit, after 3 to 4 minutes, add the slivered garlic. Cook a minute more, and then add the greens and any herbs. Season with 1/2 teaspoon salt.
  2. As the greens cook down, turn them in the pan to bring the ones on top closer to the heat. Once they’ve all collapsed, add 1/2 cup water or bean broth, lower the heat, and cook, partially covered, until tender. Depending on the greens you’ve chosen, this could take as little as a few minutes or as long as twenty. Just make sure there’s some liquid in the pan, for in the end you’ll want a little sauce. When the greens are done, add the beans, heat them through, then taste for salt, and season with pepper.
  3. Toast the bread and rub it with halved garlic. Arrange on plates and spoon the greens and beans over the top. Drizzle extra olive oil on top. Garnish with the cheese and serve.