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On
an island off the southern coast of New Jersey, at the edge of the
vast and desolate pinelands, stood an old, proud wooden hotel. The
graceful spire could be seen far over land and sea and stole the
flat horizon from the famous bygone lighthouse that was crumbling
into the tides. Carved around the crown of the spire was a bas-relief
of ocean waves rolling in endless and regal procession. The overall
effect was of a Greek temple left to preside over a land of mosquitoes
and greenhead flies. The Engleside Hotel was the grandest lodge
on the deserted stretch north of Atlantic City, a world apart from
the glamour of Asbury Park, where President Woodrow Wilson stayed
that summer of 1916, running for reelection on the promise "He kept
us out of the war." In Asbury Park, notable and fashionable people
set the modish style, but the Engleside moved to the cadence of
elegant and simpler days. With its somber turrets and long, low
porches, the hotel had a noble and slightly melancholy air, like
the last member of an old line.
The
Engleside tower struck toward the heavens with peculiar immodesty
for a structure built by Quakers. It rose in a series of four deep
balconies, where guests in wicker rocking chairs watched white-sailed
wooden craft play with the wind. On the beach were potato-in-spoon
races, skits with parasols, violins, and leaping dogs--entertainments
that diverted their guests from rumors that the kaiser's U-boats
were trolling offshore. The hotel was a temperance house, but guests
enjoyed the pleasures of reading, dining, dancing in the starlit
evening, rowing on the moonlit bay, writing long, intimate letters,
and waiting for the return mail. There was little else to do. On
the porches by the sea there was Edith Wharton's popular Ethan
Frome to read, and W. Somerset Maugham's Of Human Bondage.
The children were in a tizzy over Kenneth Grahame's storybook The
Wind in the Willows. The distant views were of twisted sea pine
among the dunes, lonely golden eagles floating over the back country,
and the water, thick with bluefish and striped bass, oyster and
hard clam, which New Englanders called by the Indian name quahog
and Philadelphians called Venus. Most of the guests of the Engleside,
born to the Philadelphia aristocracy, read Latin and Greek. On clear
days, the ocean appeared infinite before them. Long, gentle waves
curled languorously onto miles of virgin beach and returned endlessly
back to sea, but if the surf held the song of a Siren, it had long
been resisted. For many years the Engleside's Victorian guests were
too modest to disrobe to bathe. Philadelphians, changeless as their
old and distinguished city, were reluctant or afraid to enter the
water, for ocean bathing had not been done, and so for many years
was not.
But late on the last night of June of that year, the deskman at
the Engleside heard gentle splashing and frolicking in the water
in front of the hotel. The young were challenging their Victorian
parents with rebellious behaviors, and the latest fad was moonlight
swimming. Perhaps the older generation was growing sentimental,
aware of the looming shadows of the European mess. But many a deaf
ear was turned that summer to the midnight air; the young were allowed
to get away with it. The clerk that night heard nothing. The first
cool air of the day blew through the hotel's open windows as the
faint strains of hits such as "Don't Take My Darling Boy Away" spilled
out over the water from the popular new portable camp and seashore
Victrolas. The hotel's first five hundred electric lights glimmered
and swam in the darkened sea. Deeper into the night, after the hotel
was quiet and dark, the splashing and laughter in front of the Engleside
lulled, and finally ceased.
Other sounds, presently, drifted over wind and waves and echoed
along the ramparts of the great hotel. In the beginning, the sounds
were quieter than the dissolving hiss of sandcastles, soft beyond
the range of human detection, in fact. They were easily lost amid
the languid noises of the summer colony winding down an ordinary
afternoon in the wistful last days of the Edwardian period.
Yet the sounds would grow in intensity and travel swiftly, as sound
does through water, and in time the reverberations would reach every
corner of the grand hotel, around the globe, and across the new
century, awakening something ancient and long forgotten in the human
memory of the sea.
Copyright ©
2001 by Michael Capuzzo. All rights reserved.
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