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Corrections to Clara Parkes'The Knitter's Book of Yarn:
We make every effort to provide accurate patterns and helpful information to our readers. The following corrections are for the patterns found in The Knitter's Book of Yarn . The corrections are listed by pattern, page number, and row number. Large areas of red highlighted text indicate a revision in instructions. We hope you will find this useful!
Inside front and back covers
On the gorgeous Fiber Family Tree, Modell should really be Modal.
Page 37:
The correct picture of the DZined hand-dyed hemp/wool/mohair blend is pictured below:
Page 75:
The chart for the Cabled Tea Cozy has a few noncritical but aesthetically recommended improvements. On line 3, count 35 stitches from the right, take your very best black pen and draw a teeny dot in that box. Don't put it away! On line 4, count in 35 stitches from the right and place another dot there, then again on boxes 46 and 47. Slap one more dot on line 8, in 23 stitches from the right. And on line 8, if you count in 73 stitches from the right you'll find another lonely square that would be much happier if it had a dot in it.
Page 91:
The Baby Soft Cardigan was originally designed with a "boy" and "girl" version but my tech editor and I thought that might be a little overkill. We consolidated the pattern into one unisex version based on the "boy" version. Alas, what you see on the adorable child in the book is the girl version. So don't be alarmed if the buttons and flap you see are in the opposite of what you'll be knitting. And for a more finished look, you can work a single crochet edging around the edges of the sweater after you've finished seaming it together.
Page 91:
For the Small, cast on 36 sts, not 38.
Page 96:
The header "Cardigan Schematic" should read "Shawl Schematic."
Page 107:
Instead of size 3.25 (3mm) dpns, you really want size 3 (3.25mm) needles.
Page 117:
Endpapers Shawl:
"Razor Shell Pattern" should read "Chart A"
Page 153:
In the Patchwork Carriage Blanket, the instructions for "Square 1: Stripes" should end, "Rep Rows 1 and 2." Your blanket won't self-destruct if you don't work that last purl row but it'll make your next row a heck of a lot easier.
Page 165:
The Note says, "exact row gauge is important so that the tank is the correct length." But we're working sideways! I meant width. You want to make sure you have the correct row gauge so that the tank fits across the bust correctly.
Page 176:
The left thumb gusset of the Princess Mitts would be much happier knit using this revised thumb gusset chart.
Page 189:
The Finished Measurements in the Butterfly Moebius should read width approx 24" (60cm), height approx 10" (25.5cm). The circumference of the piece will be twice its width.
Page 195:
In the Chunky Winter Set, the very first row of the Thumb Gussett Increase should read: K1, pm, m1, k1, m1, pm, knit to the end of rnd. There's something about that first "pm" that seems to cause the "m1" to flee.
Page 203:
Diamonds and Pearls Shawl:
Row 1: K1, YO, place marker (pm), k1, pm, YO, k1, pm, YO,
In Notes, the stitch count jumps in row 33, not 31.
Row 39: K1, YO, k10, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k7, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k7, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k10, YO, k1, YO, k10, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k7, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k7, YO, sl1 k2tog psso, YO, k10, YO, k1—93 sts
Page 204: Row 39:
There should be a yo after the first K7 (93 sts). Thank you again Mari!
Page 215: Scaruffle
Row 10: K1, knit into the front and back of each st to last st, k1—324sts.
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