| MAKES | 4 SERVINGS |
| TIME | ABOUT 2 HOURS, LARGELY UNATTENDED |
“Crisp-braised” might seem like a contradiction in terms, since braising is geared to develop full tenderness, usually at the cost of crispness. But browned duck skin has such an astonishing capacity for holding its crispness that duck legs can be browned, then carefully braised, with the result being a crackling skin covering sublimely soft meat.
This is a grand winter dish, the kind you would eat ecstatically at a neighborhood bistro, were you lucky enough to live near such a place. Serve with bread and a salad.
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4 duck legs, trimmed of excess fat
Salt and black pepper to taste 2 leeks, trimmed, cleaned, and diced, or 1 large onion, diced ½ pound carrots, peeled and diced 3 celery stalks, diced 5 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed 6 fresh thyme sprigs 2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade Chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish | |
| 1. | Put the duck legs, skin side down, in a skillet large enough to accommodate all the ingredients comfortably; turn the heat to medium. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Brown the duck legs slowly, carefully, and evenly, sprinkling them with salt and pepper as they cook. Meanwhile, chop the vegetables. |
| 2. | When the legs are nicely browned, turn and sear the meat side for just a minute or two. Transfer to a plate; remove all but enough of the fat to moisten the vegetables (there’s plenty more fat where that came from). Add the vegetables, thyme, and some salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, over medium-high heat, until they begin to brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Return the duck legs, skin side up, to the pan and add the stock; it should come about halfway up the duck legs but in no case should it cover them. Turn the heat to high, bring to a boil, and transfer to the oven. |
| 3. | Cook for 30 minutes, then turn the heat to 350°F. Continue to cook, undisturbed, until the duck is tender and the liquid reduced, at least another half hour and probably a bit longer. (When done, the duck will hold nicely in a warm oven for up to another hour.) Garnish and serve. |
Crisp-Braised Duck Legs with Apricots or Prunes. In step 2, substitute shallots for the leeks; omit the celery and garlic and add 1½ cups dried apricots and/or prunes. Proceed as directed.
Crisp-Braised Duck Legs with Parsley. In step 2, cook ¼ cup peeled and chopped
shallots until softened (omit the other vegetables). Add 2 cups chopped fresh
parsley leaves; use 2 cups dry white wine (or 1 cup wine and 1 cup stock) in
place of the stock. Finish as directed, garnishing with more fresh parsley.