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SPQR
Modern Italian Food and Wine
Written by Shelley Lindgren
, Matthew Accarrino and Kate Leahy
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Pages: 304 | ISBN: 978-1-60774-384-2
Published by : Ten Speed Press Ten Speed Press
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Synopsis
A cookbook and wine guide celebrating the regional traditions and exciting innovations of modern Italian cooking, from San Francisco's SPQR restaurant.
The Roman Empire was famous for its network of roads. By following the path of these thoroughfares, Shelley Lindgren, wine director and co-owner of the acclaimed San Francisco restaurants A16 and SPQR, and executive chef of SPQR, Matthew Accarrino, explore Central and Northern Italy’s local cuisines and artisanal wines.
Throughout each of the eight featured regions, Accarrino offers not only a modern version of Italian cooking, but also his own take on these constantly evolving regional specialties. Recipes like Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise and Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta are elevated and thoughtful, reflecting Accarrino’s extensive knowledge of traditional Italian food, but also his focus on precision and technique. In addition to recipes, Accarrino elucidates basic kitchen skills like small animal butchery and pasta making, as well as newer techniques like sous vide—all of which are prodigiously illustrated with step-by-step photos.
Shelley Lindgren’s uniquely informed essays on the wines and winemakers of each region reveal the most interesting Italian wines, highlighting overlooked and little-known grapes and producers—and explaining how each reflects the region’s unique history, cultural influences, climate, and terrain. Lindgren, one of the foremost authorities on Italian wine, shares her deep and unparalleled knowledge of Italian wine and winemakers through producer profiles, wine recommendations, and personal observations, making this a necessary addition to any wine-lover’s library.
Brimming with both discovery and tradition, SPQR delivers the best of modern Italian food rooted in the regions, flavors, and history of Italy.
Excerpt
Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato PassatinaThis is a pasta born from my experience of con niente, a meal created from nothing more than the few ingredients we managed to find around us. With this pasta, I’ve striven to recreate the simplicity of the meal we made at Roberto’s casone on the lagoon. The shrimp—gamberetti—were simply cooked with tomato, then sent through a food mill, shells and all. This rich, pink sauce became the condimento for the store-bought spaghetti that Roberto had on hand.
serves 4 to 6
extra virgin olive oil
150 grams / 1/2 yellow onion, finely diced
12 grams / 3 garlic cloves, minced
150 grams / 1 carrot, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
454 grams / 1 pound shell-on raw baby shrimp
kosher salt and black pepper
a pinch of dried red pepper flakes
115 grams / 1/2 cup white wine
240 grams / 11/2 cups canned tomatoes
50 grams / 4 breadsticks, like grissini, broken up
2 grams / 2 teaspoons chopped parsley
340 grams / 12 ounces fresh spaghetti (page 264) or dried
Heat a thin film of olive oil in a large, wide pot over medium heat. Stir in the onion and sweat until softened, 3 minutes. Stir in the garlic and sweat 1 to 2 minutes more until aromatic. Add the carrot and sweat until softened, 3 to 4 minutes.
Turn up the heat to medium-high, stir in the shrimp, and season with salt, pepper, and pepper flakes. Pour in the wine and bring to a simmer. Stir in the tomato and return to a simmer. Pour in 1 cup of water, lower the heat, and cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until the shrimp are soft enough to break up with a wooden spoon if pressed. Stir the broken grissini pieces into the pot, remove from the heat, and stir in the parsley.
Place a food mill fitted with a coarse plate over a clean pot. In batches, pass the shrimp and broth through the food mill. You will have a coarse paste. (If it’s too dry to go through the food mill, stir in more water). Taste the shrimp paste and season with salt and pepper.
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Cook the spaghetti for 4 minutes if using fresh, and as directed on the package if using dry. Drain the spaghetti, reserving a cup of pasta water, and return the spaghetti to the pasta pot. Stir spoonfuls of the shrimp paste into the spaghetti until evenly coated, adding a few spoonfuls of water if the pasta looks dry, and simmer for one more minute before serving.
Excerpted from SPQR by Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino with Kate Leahy. Copyright © 2012 by Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino with Kate Leahy. Excerpted by permission of Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Table of Contents
IntroductionAncient Information Highways
La Strada del Vino
La Strada della Cucina
Roman Roads
Via Appia—Lazio
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Via Flaminia—Umbria
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Resources
Kitchen Road Map: Fundamental Techniques
Basic Recipes, and Ingredients
Acknowledgments
Index
Recipes
Via Appia—Lazio
Spiced Ricotta Fritters with Smoked Maple Syrup
Fried Rabbit Livers with Pickled Vegetables and Spicy Mayonnaise
Crispy Pig Ears with Pickled Green Tomatoes, Jalapeño, and Radish
Spring Vegetable Vignarola Salad
Bucatini with Nettles, Pancetta, and Black Pepper
Whole Wheat Fettuccine with Funghi Trifolati and Spring Garlic
Braised Oxtail in Cabbage Leaves with Cranberry Beans
Goat Cheese and Ricotta Crespelle with Orange-Caramel Sauce
Spring Lamb
Lamb Ragù with Semolina Gnocchi and Pecorino Pepato
Lamb Belly
Lamb Loin and Rack with Gaeta Olive Sauce
Leg of Lamb Wrapped in Lamb Mousse and Swiss Chard
Steamed Artichokes
Pickled Swiss Chard Stems
Via Salaria—Le Marche
Fluke Crudo, Sausage-Stuffed Olives, and Citrus
Fried Surf Clams with Agrodolce and Onion, Fennel, and Cherry Pepper Salad
Baked Anchovies
Passatelli en Brodo
Lasagna Vincisgrassi
Rabbit a la Villa Bucci
Dried Fruit and Nut Biscotti with Sweet Wine Granita
Via Flaminia—Umbria
Smoked Trout with Warm Potato Salad and Horseradish Gelatina
Chopped Chicken Livers with Wine Gelatina, Carrot Marmellata, and Grilled Bread
Fava Bean Agnolotti with Mashed Black Truffle
Tagliatelle d’Oro with Chicken Livers, Mushrooms, and Black Truffle
Linguine al Cocoa with Venison Ragù
Farro-Stuffed Quail with Chestnuts, Persimmons, and Dandelion Greens
Pistachio Torta with Meyer Lemon Curd, Pistachio Crema, and Brown Butter
Suckling Pig
Crocchette with Pickled Green Rhubarb and Apricots
Legs and Belly with Thyme, Lemon, and Fennel Pollen
Chops with Prosciutto Sauce
Blécs with Suckling Pig Ragù and Rapini
Pickled Rhubarb and Dried Apricots
Prosciutto Sauce
Via Postumia—Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia
Spaghetti with Shrimp and Tomato Passatina
Sardines in Saor with Peperonata Jam
Asparagus with Lardo-Wrapped Rye Dumplings, Goat Cheese, and Sprouting Greens
Squid Ink Linguine with Braised Squid, Sea Urchin, Broccoli Crema, and Pan Grattato
Farro Pasta with Speck, Green Onions, and Poppy Seeds
Duck Ravioli with Sour Cherries and Candied Pecans
Chocolate Torta with Vanilla Mascarpone
Via Claudia Augusta—Trentino–Alto Adige
Chilled Asparagus Soup with Meyer Lemon Yogurt and Fish Roe
Mustard Spaetzle with Chanterelle Mushrooms and Stridoli
Rye Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Potatoes, and Crispy Speck
Mushroom Risotto
Beer-Braised Pork Cheeks with Escarole
Venison Loin with Parsnips and Huckleberry Vinaigrette
Ricotta Bavarese with Verjus-Poached Rhubarb, Orange Confitura, and Powdered Olive Oil
Via Aemilia—Emilia-Romagna and Lombardia
Fritto Misto
Chestnut-Filled Pasta with Broccoli di Cicco, Guanciale, and Burnt-Orange Sauce
Squash Cappellacci with Medjool Dates, Rosemary Brown Butter, and Saba
Ricotta and Quail Egg Ravioli with Wild Greens and Fontina
Veal and Mortadella Tortellini en Consommé
Bolognese with Egg Noodles
Erbazzone Torta with Braised Greens, Prosciutto Cotto, and Eggs
Pork Milanese, Pickled Cabbage Salad, Anchovy, and Lemon Brown Butter
Buckwheat Polenta Taragna, Rabbit Stufato, Cherry Tomato, and Mimolette
Fried Quince Pies with Truffle Honey and Aged Balsamic
Via Francigena—Piemonte and Valle d’Aosta
Egg “in the Hole” with Mushrooms and Miner’s Lettuce
Bone Marrow Sformato with Stuffed Baby Artichokes
Fontina and Mushroom Tortelli with Black Truffle Fonduta
Risotto with Crayfish and Sweetbreads
Savoy Cabbage with Mushrooms, Lardo, and Crispy Prosciutto
Chestnut-Stuffed Veal Breast with Orzotto
Baked Polenta with Beef Cheek Ragù, Eggs, and Fontina
Barolo Beef with Carrots and New Potatoes
Chocolate Soufflés with Milk Chocolate Gelato
Via Aurelia—Liguria and Toscana
Baked Ricotta with Cherry Tomatoes, Saba, and Pignoli Granola
Scallop Crudo with Sunchokes, Hibiscus Agrodolce, Almonds, and Cherries
Albacore Tuna Confitura with Panzanella Salad and Anchovies
Beet and Ricotta Pansotti with Walnuts and Ricotta Salata
Tomato-Braised Abalone with Farinata
Smoked Linguine with Clams, Cherry Tomatoes, and Basil Pesto
Ramp Spaghetti with Crab and Sea Urchin Butter
Saffron Trofie with Veal Ragù
Passion Fruit Panna Cotta with Coconut Spuma
About Shelley Lindgren
About Matthew Accarrino
Matthew Accarrino
Executive Chef
When Executive Chef Matthew Accarrino of SPQR recalls what attracted him to the hospitality industry, he says, “It gave me the chance to tell my story with food.” Accarrino’s family heritage leads back to the wind swept hills and coast of Puglia, Italy. Visits with his extended family and stints spent cooking there at an early age instilled a deep appreciation for quality, seasonal, handmade products and ingredients. Learning to make pasta, polenta, and risotto in Italy also influenced his distinctive approach in the kitchen. “It impressed on me the importance of starch as its own course in that cuisine, which is in a sense, where much of my inspiration comes from.”
Born in the Midwest and raised in New Jersey, Accarrino began his culinary journey in high school working his way up from dishwasher to cook in small local restaurants. With the desire to receive formal training, Accarrino enrolled in The Culinary Institute of America, where in 1998, he received his Associate Degree in Culinary Arts. While earning his Bachelor of Arts Degree in Hospitality and Tourism Management at Fairleigh Dickinson University, he worked as a cook at the nearby Five Diamond Hilton at Short Hills.
Upon completion of his formal education, Accarrino worked in New York City for Charlie Palmer of Aureole and then for Todd English as sous chef at Olives in The W Union Square. In 2002, after working with Rick Moonen at his seafood restaurant Oceana, Accarrino was asked to assist Chef Moonen in the opening of his first solo project, Restaurant RM. The restaurant received three stars from the New York Times, who commended the kitchen under Accarrino’s co-direction for its innovative execution of flavor combinations and meticulous attention to detail. While working at Restaurant RM, Accarrino was also invited to cook at the prestigious James Beard House.
After spending extended time staging in Italy, Accarrino returned to New York where in 2004, he joined the opening team at Thomas Keller’s Per Se as a sous chef. The restaurant would go on to earn three Michelin stars and a coveted 4-star rating from the New York Times. Alongside Thomas Keller and other skilled chefs, Accarrino continued to evolve his technique, focusing on honing an exceptional level of execution and operation. In early 2006, Chef Tom Colicchio approached Accarrino to assist with operating three of his restaurants in New York - Craft, Craftbar and Craftsteak. He was subsequently asked to move to California to open Craft and Craftbar in Los Angeles.
Seeking to more fully develop his own personal cuisine and set out on his own path, Accarrino moved to Northern California and joined the intimate restaurant SPQR as Executive Chef in late 2009. Since his arrival, Accarrino has been named a Star Chefs “2010 Rising Star” for his “innovative vision, finesse, and deeply satisfying cuisine,” and in 2011 he took top honors at San Francisco’s Cochon 555 competition. Accarrino was nominated by the James Beard Foundation as a semi-finalist for “Best Chef: Pacific” in 2012 and the restaurant received its first Michelin star under his direction in the 2013 guide. He is also co-author of the SPQR: Modern Italian Food and Wine book, which was released in fall 2012.
As his reputation as a chef continues to grow, Accarrino reflects, “A big part of the narrative I try to create with food is a combination of the way I employ my Italian heritage and the modern perspective I’ve gained by working with some of America’s greatest chefs. I am constantly challenging myself evolve, further define my vision, and lead myself forward.”
Accarrino lives in San Francisco, California.
XXX FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TO SET UP AN INTERVIEW, PLEASE CALL WAGSTAFF WORLDWIDE AT 415.274.2510
About Kate Leahy
Praise
“Shelly Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino have composed a book filled with their inspirations based on Italian regional cuisine and wines. It gives us a powerful insight into what makes SPQR one of San Francisco’s favorite restaurants. It makes me wish I lived close by.”—Thomas Keller, The French Laundry
“Shelley Lindgren has done it again. First, there was her restaurant A16 and a stunning cookbook emerged from that still-marvelous restaurant. Then came SPQR. With the remarkable talent of chef Matthew Accarrino, it has become one of San Francisco’s
finest restaurants, bar none. If you haven’t yet heard of SPQR and Matthew Accarrino, trust me, you soon will. This book shows why.”
—Matt Kramer, author and Wine Spectator columnist
“Matthew brings a sense of elegance and refinement to Italian cooking that seems at once natural and yet revelatory. There is a humanistic element to the cooking at SPQR that in concert with Shelley’s wine service, creates a memorable and warm experience. I always look forward to returning.”
—Christopher Kostow, chef, The Restaurant at Meadowood
“I am a staunch traditionalist when it comes to Italian cuisine, yet I love Matthew Accarrino’s modern Italian cooking at SPQR. His food is Italian in spirit but cooked in the region (paese) of California, using local ingredients, contemporary techniques, and infusing the food with soul and sophistication. Shelley Lindgren is my go-to goddess for Italian wine. A charming and delightful educator, she has extensive knowledge of Italian wine making and wine makers. But even more important, she seeks out little known wines from small regional producers. I learn and taste something new with every visit to SPQR.”
—Joyce Goldstein, chef, author, and culinary consultant
“With well-thought-out recipes and little known wine pairings, discover a perfect
balance of contemporary flavor and technique with a soulfulness that is respectful of tradition. Through Matthew’s passion and experience, SPQR will challenge you to become a better cook!”
—Rick Moonen, executive chef and owner of rm Seafood
Praise for A16: Food + Wine:
“This is a cook’s cookbook; it deserves a quiet season filled with long chilly nights, the ideal time to enjoy its gutsy dishes.”
—Gourmet
- SPQR by Shelley Lindgren and Matthew Accarrino with Kate Leahy
- October 16, 2012
- Cooking - Wine & Spirits; Cooking - Pasta; Cooking - Italian
- Ten Speed Press
- $35.00
- 9781607740520
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