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  • Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen
  • Written by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller
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Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook A Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavolàta

Written by Ethan StowellAuthor Alerts:  Random House will alert you to new works by Ethan Stowell and Leslie MillerAuthor Alerts:  Random House will alert you to new works by Leslie Miller

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On Sale: September 21, 2010
Pages: 240 | ISBN: 978-1-60774-081-0
Published by : Ten Speed Press Potter/TenSpeed/Harmony
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ABOUT THE BOOK ABOUT THE BOOK
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ABOUT THE AUTHOR
PRAISE PRAISE
Synopsis|Excerpt|Table of Contents

Synopsis

Welcome to Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen--not so much a place as a philosophy. Here food isn’t formal or fussy, just focused, with recipes that honor Italian tradition while celebrating the best ingredients the Pacific Northwest has to offer. We’re talking about a generous bowl of steaming handmade pasta--served with two forks for you and a friend. Or perhaps an impeccably fresh crudo, crunchy cucumber and tangy radish accenting impossibly sweet spot prawns. Next up are the jewel tones of a beet salad with lush, homemade ricotta, or maybe a tangle of white beans and clams spiked with Goat Horn pepper--finished off with a whole roasted fish that begs to be sucked off the bones. Oh, some cheese, a gooseberry compote complementing your Robiola, or the bittersweet surprise of Campari sorbet. 
 
This layered approach is a hallmark of Ethan’s restaurants, and in his New Italian Kitchen, he offers home cooks a tantalizing roadmap for re-creating this style of eating. Prepare a feast simply by combining the lighter dishes found in “Nibbles and Bits”—from Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts, and Lemon to Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise—or adding recipes with complex flavors for a more sophisticated meal. Try the luscious Corn and Chanterelle Soup from “The Measure of a Cook;” or the Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon from “Wheat’s Highest Calling.” Up the ante with a stunning Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions and Bloomsdale Spinach from “Starches to Grow On,” or choose one of the “Beasties of the Land,” like Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings. Each combination will nudge you and your guests in new, unexpected, and unforgettable directions.
 
Every page of Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen captures the enthusiasm, humor, and imagination that make cooking one of life’s best and most satisfying adventures. It’s got to be good--but it’s also got to be fun.

Excerpt

Introduction
 
Okay, this is my ideal dinner. There are two of you—cozy, but not alone. Laughter and music float around you, as does the muted percussion of silver on porcelain. There’s that soft light that makes everyone look better and a bottle of wine on the table. It doesn’t have to be pricey, just good. Out come a series of plates, not too small, not too big, but shareable. I’m not talking about doling out little bits onto dainty saucers—more like a bowl of handmade pasta set down between you with two forks sticking out of the steam. Or maybe it’s an impeccably fresh crudo, the ocean flavors clean and bright, that preps you for the grilled zucchini salad, or maybe a tangle of white beans and grilled shrimp. What follows is a perfectly roasted quail or fresh branzino you unapologetically suck off the bones.
 
The goal is a series of tastes. Each of you gets to try a little bit of everything, eating just enough of each dish so you feel sated, but not so much that it dulls your enthusiasm for the next dish issuing from the kitchen, whether that’s a soft-boiled egg with anchovy mayonnaise or beef carpaccio or maybe some orecchiette with grilled octopus and Taggiasca olives. This is the way I cook in my restaurants, and this is the way I eat. This is the way I hope you will eat, too.
 
When I opened each of my Seattle restaurants, I tried for places that were sexy without being slick; I wanted intimate spaces that glow with soft wood and copper, or that gather strangers at a thick communal table, la tavolàta. Overall, I wanted to reinforce the idea that food shouldn’t be formal or fussy, just focused. And, more than that, that eating is an art more walk-up than doorman, more warehouse than gallery. It’s got to be good, but it’s also got to be fun.
 
You’ll find very few lengthy ingredient lists inside this book, no foams or caul-fat wrappers or four-page spreads. You will find recipes meant to be both modern and seductive, every recipe designed for a shareable meal that would be at place at my ideal dinner table. I’d like you to think just as much about the method as the meals, and make different choices about not only what you eat, but how you eat. Instead of doubling the recipes for bigger parties and families, I’d like you to consider adding another dish or two instead, allowing each of your guests even more delectable forkfuls, scoops, nibbles, and tastes. There is joy and abundance inherent in thoughtful food done right—you don’t need to douse it with truffle oil to make food special. Incredible, pristine ingredients suffer from being overly dolled up, but if there were no magic in how we put ingredients together, then I’d be out of a job. Let’s get back not to the food we used to eat—this isn’t nonna’s Italian—but to a more time-tested philosophy of how we eat, allowing us to create and share food at its best, eating the way we were meant to, with each other.
 
It was during my first stint in a restaurant kitchen—there among the misfits and mad geniuses, most of them unfit for human company and therefore well suited to restaurant hours—that I felt, for the first time, like I was truly among my people. I worked my way up the line, tasting and learning along the way from people with incredible skills and artistry. In those first jobs I did very precise French cooking, the type of cooking that I, and many others, thought to be the height of culinary artistry. I’m still glad for those years; they taught me incredible focus and important skills in prep and plating. But it was with Italian-inflected cuisine that I felt the same jolt that I did during my first restaurant job. I fell in love, not only with the food itself—fresh, rustic—but also with the philosophy behind the food. Everything seemed meant to share, meant to inspire joy and fun. It was food that was meant to feed the spirit as much as the body.
 
And that is how I shape my idea of how a meal should go. The arc of the meal should build in terms of weight, body, flavor, and texture instead of building up the portion size. That is why you won’t find the recipes in this book organized according to a traditional layout: appetizers, pastas, entrées, and desserts. In place of that traditional framework, the book organizes recipes into broad categories so that you can customize the dishes and build the flavor in your own perfect meal. Along with the arc of flavor, I recommend employing a little common sense; if you are serving a heavier or more elaborate meat dish, for example, don’t preface it with three courses. You want people to feel happy and satisfied, not stuffed.
 
Just like a dinner guest, I want you to read this book and feel happy and satisfied, inspired but not overwhelmed. Like you, I love cookbooks; I own more than a few myself. For years, after every shift, I pored through recipes, a certain few cookbooks at my bedside. It’s that cookbook—the one you read at night like a novel, the one that inspires you but doesn’t take itself too seriously—that I endeavored to write for you. I consider it a privilege to make food for people, and I make an effort to do it with enthusiasm and imagination every time I step into the kitchen. If you take that attitude with you into your own kitchen (and maybe this book, too), it’s pretty hard to go wrong.
 
 
A Note on Ingredients
 
The recipes in this book are straightforward and depend not only on technique but also on using the very best ingredients you can find and afford. If you are too tight on time to make your own pasta or are making a dish that calls for dried, go to an Italian grocery that sells and imports artisanal brands. While you are there, buy the best extra-virgin olive oil you can find—you’ll use it with abandon when you prepare these recipes.
 
Use only kosher salt, unless a finishing salt such as fleur de sel is specified. Grind your pepper fresh from the mill.
 
If your tap water isn’t perfect, use springwater for the recipes; this is especially important for preparing soups.
 
Make sure your eggs are fresh and preferably buy them from the farmers’ market; likewise with your fruits and vegetables. You’ll be delighted by the results if you let the seasons and availability guide your choices.
 
 
Nibbles and Bits
 
Mixing and matching dishes from this section is a wonderful way to eat, whether it’s two of you or six or eight. Creating a meal out of these plates lets you use smaller amounts of ingredients and gives your guests or family small flavor bursts. You probably don’t want to eat a whole plate of crudo, but sharing the Spot Prawn Crudo, nibbling on marinated baby vegetables, or having a bite or two of a Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta—I don’t know anyone who would turn down starting, or doing—a meal this way.
 
The crudos, simply Italian for “raw,” honor the ingredients by showcasing their inherent taste and texture. Whether it’s beef or escolar, I like to slice it in such a way that it has a little bite to it. To me, there is something critical that is lost when you slice all raw ingredients paper-thin; a large part of the enjoyment comes from the feel of the meat or fish on your tongue, between your teeth. Especially because of the wealth of incredible fish and seafood in Seattle, crudos are becoming increasingly popular. Diners also realize that crudos make simple and elegant starters, and that the preparation speaks to the respect the cook has for the ingredients on the plate. Think of the recipes that follow as guidelines; as you get more comfortable, you will know that you can swap out spot prawns for swordfish and create a dish with a totally new taste and texture. Use different oils, fruits, and chiles to bring out the fish’s best characteristics without covering up anything.
 
As much as I love crudos, I would never say no to a paper cone of fried clams with a side of aioli for dipping. They’re in here, the aioli brightened up with sorrel, as are Fried Artichokes Pangratatto and Crispy Young Favas, too. I have no truck with those snobby chefs who think that a fryer has no place in the modern kitchen or think it’s trashy. People like fried things. It’s a good day when you get past worrying about your reputation and start prioritizing making food people love, and that includes fresh bowls of pasta and fried oysters, too. If you’re worried about being judged for making that kind of comfort food as a chef, then you got into the biz for the wrong reason. Chefs should cook for the same reason you do—because you enjoy making beautiful food for people.

Table of Contents

ix Acknowledgments
1 Introduction
3 A Note on Ingredients
 
Nibbles and Bits
 
8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano
10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue
11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise
13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula
14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic
18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto
21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli
23 Fun with Geoduck
24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish
24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche
25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles
26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon
28 Marinated Octopus
29 Pickled Vegetables
31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint
32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli
32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint
34 Frittata with Morels and Savory
35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde
37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise
38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments
39 Uni Spoons
 
The Measure of a Cook: Soups
 
42 Soups with Artichokes
42 Essence of Artichoke Soup
42 Farro and Artichoke Soup
44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon
46 Clam Brodetto
47 Parmesan Brodo
48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables
51 Farmers’ Market Soup
52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg
53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup
54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup
56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons
57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup
 
Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto
 
60 Basic Potato Gnocchi
63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg
64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu
66 Polenta Master Recipes
66 Soft Polenta
66 Firm Polenta
68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta
69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce
70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone
71 A Trio of Spring Risottos
71 Spring Garlic Risotto
72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini
73 Artichoke Risotto
74 Clam Risotto with Lemon
76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil
77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels
79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach
 
Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta
 
84 Pasta Master Recipes
84  Egg Pasta
84  Semolina Pasta
89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore
90 Linguine with Shrimp
91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon
92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter
95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint
96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream
97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon
98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin
100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto
102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo
103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel
104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard
105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps
106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely
 
Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides
 
110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta
111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette
112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta
115 Lentils with Pancetta
116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock
119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano
120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette
121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad
122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives
125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon
126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey
127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing
128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio
131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme
132 Company Alligator Pear
135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear
137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg
138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint
140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad)
141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins
 
Beasties of the Land . . .
 
144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange
146 Home-Cured Bacon
148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas
149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce
150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon
152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula
153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini
155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings
156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage
158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote
159 Party Meats
159  Party Tripe on Soft Polenta
160  Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel
162  Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans
163  Italian “Tacos”
 
. . . and Sea
 
167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives
168 Mob-Hit Squid
170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish
171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati)
172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes
174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic
175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint
177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée
178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel
179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad
181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce
 
Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You
 
184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust
185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear
186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals
189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches
190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote
191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée
192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco
193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache
194 Chocolate Ice Cream
195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream
196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream
197 Melon Sorbet
199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet
200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet
201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream
202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries
203 Cardamom Sablés
204 Pie Cookies
205 Pine Nut Crumbles
206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries
208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart
 
Building Blocks: Condiments, Sauces, and Staples
 
216 Basic Tomato Sauce
217 Mayonnaise
217 Preserved Garlic
218 Preserved Lemons
218 Preserved Pecorino Sardo
219 Salsa Verde
220 Garlic Breadcrumbs
220 Basic Chickpeas
Ethan Stowell|Leslie Miller

About Ethan Stowell

Ethan Stowell - Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen

Photo © Geoffrey Smith

ETHAN STOWELL was honored with a James Beard Award nomination for Best Chef Northwest, and was named one of the 2008 Best New Chefs in America by Food & Wine magazine, among other accolades. His restaurants have received rave reviews from Food & Wine, Wine Spectator, and Gourmet, and Bon Appétit and GQ each named Stowell restaurants in their Top Ten in America.

About Leslie Miller

Leslie Miller - Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen
LESLIE MILLER’s writing has appeared in anthologies and periodicals. She is partner in the writing and editing firm Girl Friday Productions.
Praise

Praise

“When acclaimed Seattle chef Ethan Stowell set out to write a cookbook, his goal was to create one that inspires home cooks but doesn't take itself too seriously -- a tall order for any chef-driven book. But "Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen" achieves all that and more, showcasing the refined but unfussy Italian-meets-Pacific Northwest dishes that earned Stowell multiple James Beard Award nominations.”
—Portland Oregonian, Best of 2010, 12/21/10

“Ethan Stowell is to Italian food what David Chang is to Asian food, not a purist but a flavor junkie and a stickler for quality. Both make big bold food and manage to coax the most flavor out of everything they make. They seduce you with texture and intensity. They are not about authenticity, but about creating fantastic food. Hallelujah!”
—Cooking with Amy, Top Cookbooks 2010, 12/18/10

“Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi oysters with garlic breadcrumbs, cannelloni with braised pork cheeks and sweet cicely, zatar-rubbed leg of goat with fresh chickpeas and sorrel -- this is the gutsy Northwestern spin that Seattle chef Ethan Stowell puts on Italian cuisine. Big flavors, local ingredients and compelling flavor combinations are the hallmarks of his recipes.”
—L.A. Times, 12/9/10

“The celebrated Seattle chef offers his brash take on nose-to-tail Italian. Party tripe on soft polenta for everyone!”
—The New York Times Book Review, Web Extra: 25 More Cookbooks, 12/3/10

“Crazy for the soft-boiled eggs with anchovy mayo at How to Cook a Wolf on Queen Anne? (I am!) You'll find the recipe here. Ever wonder how to clean a geoduck? (I have.) Chef Ethan Stowell provides the pictorial process, and a recipe for geoduck crudo — just like they serve at his Capitol Hill comer Anchovies & Olives. And of course, there's a whole chapter on pasta, fresh and dried (the star of the show at Tavolata in Belltown).”
—Seattle Times, 12/2/10

“Above the rank and file of Italian cookbooks.”
—StarChefs.com, Top 10 Cookbooks 2010: Honorable Mention, November 2010

"The perfect homage to traditional Italian cooking – but sexier! Dive into this one; New Italian Kitchen is fun, delicious and guaranteed to get the creative kitchen juices flowing!"
—Guest blogger Kathy Casey, Al Dente, Amazon food blog, 11/15/10

The title's "new" claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.)
—Publishers Weekly, 9/6/10

"Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen is not only a great collection of accessible recipes that compel one to start cooking right away, and it also reveals a chef with soul. This book perfectly captures the spirit of Ethan and his team, their soulful, delicious food, and the vitality of their restaurants in the great city of Seattle."
—David Kinch, James Beard Award–winning chef and owner of Manresa
 
“Ethan is a true chef’s chef. He has a great respect for the seasons, the farms, and the fishermen who supply him, which is reflected in his restaurants and in the dishes he prepares.”
—David Pasternack, chef-owner of Esca and author of The Young Man and the Sea: Recipes and Crispy Fish Tales from Esca
 
“Ethan Stowell is a northwestern jewel is every epicurean sense of the word. His influence on the Seattle food scene is unmistakable, and his personal take on Italian food is at once sophisticated yet simple and understated--a delectable combination. I appreciate Ethan’s intrinsic wine savvy; his food seamlessly matches at the table, creating memorable and delicious pairings.”
—Evan Goldstein, author of Perfect Pairings and Daring Pairings
 
“Ethan’s passion for fresh and delicious food has been a staple at his restaurants for years, and the craftsmanship in his dishes is a testament to his drive for serving soulfully inspired foods. Now the world can take a glimpse into the mind and recipes that have set Ethan apart from the rest.”
—Chris Cosentino, executive chef of Incanto

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