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  • The New American Cooking
  • Written by Joan Nathan
  • Format: Hardcover | ISBN: 9781400040346
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  • The New American Cooking
  • Written by Joan Nathan
  • Format: eBook | ISBN: 9780307538871
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Written by Joan NathanAuthor Alerts:  Random House will alert you to new works by Joan Nathan

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List Price: $17.99

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On Sale: March 22, 2011
Pages: 464 | ISBN: 978-0-307-53887-1
Published by : Knopf Knopf
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ABOUT THE BOOK ABOUT THE BOOK
ABOUT THE AUTHOR ABOUT THE AUTHOR
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Synopsis|Excerpt

Synopsis

Joan Nathan, the author of Jewish Cooking in America, An American Folklife Cookbook, and many other treasured cookbooks, now gives us a fabulous feast of new American recipes and the stories behind them that reflect the most innovative time in our culinary history.

The huge influx of peoples from all over Asia--Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, India--and from the Middle East and Latin America in the past forty years has brought to our kitchens new exotic flavors, little-known herbs and condiments, and novel cooking techniques that make the most of every ingredient. At the same time, health and environmental concerns have dramatically affected how and what we eat. The result: American cooking has never been as exciting as it is today. And Joan Nathan proves it on every page of this wonderfully rewarding book.

Crisscrossing the country, she talks to organic farmers, artisanal bread bakers and cheese makers, a Hmong farmer in Minnesota, a mango grower in Florida, an entrepreneur of Indian frozen foods in New Jersey, home cooks, and new-wave chefs.

Among the many enticing dishes she discovers are a breakfast huevos rancheros casserole; starters such as Ecuadorean shrimp ceviche, Szechuan dumplings, and Malaysian swordfish satays; pea soup with kaffir leaves; gazpacho with sashimi; pasta dressed with pistachio pesto; Iraqi rice-stuffed Vidalia onions; and main courses of Ecuadorean casuela, chicken yasa from Gambia, and couscous from Timbuktu (with dates and lamb). And there are desserts for every taste.

Old American favorites are featured, too, but often Nathan discovers a cook who has a new way with a dish, such as an asparagus salad with blood orange mayonnaise, pancakes made with blue cornmeal and pine nuts, a seafood chowder that includes monkfish, and a chocolate bread pudding with dried cherries.

Because every recipe has a story behind it, The New American Cooking is a book that is as much fun to read as it is to cook from--a must for every kitchen today.

Excerpt

Chocolate Red Velvet Cake with Chocolate Icing

When I was growing up, I always wanted a simple chocolate cake for my birthday. I still do. This velvety chocolate cake gets its name from its smooth texture and reddish hue. The original recipe called for red beet juice—in some parts of the country it is called beet cake—but was altered by manufacturers who added red food coloring to the cake. "Red coloring is evil and dangerous for children and other living things," Carole Greenwood, a chef in Washington, D.C. told me. She refuses to use food coloring but loves this buttermilk-based velvety chocolate cake, and uses red wine vinegar or beet juice for the color. She also makes her version less sweet, using both good-quality cocoa powder and bittersweet chocolate.

For the cake:
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup good-quality cocoa powder
2 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla
1 cup buttermilk
1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
2 tablespoons pickled beet juice or red wine vinegar
1 1/2 cups bleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cake flour
1/2 cup cornstarch
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

For the icing:
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 tablespoon unsalted butter
2 tablespoons sugar
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon salt

Yield: 1 cake serving 8 people

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees and grease two 9-inch round cake pans.

2. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the water and cocoa powder, and allow the mixture to cool.

3. Beat the eggs in the bowl of an electric mixer, then add the vanilla, buttermilk, baking soda, and beet juice or red wine vinegar and stir well.

4. Sift together the all-purpose flour, cake flour, cornstarch, salt, and sugar into the bowl. Pour in the butter and then the egg mixture and blend thoroughly on low.

5. Pour the batter into the prepared cake pans. Bake for about 20-25 minutes or until the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.

6. Cool the cakes for a few minutes, then turn them out onto wire racks, and frost and fill the center with the chocolate icing.

Chocolate Icing

1. Place the cream, butter, and sugar in a small saucepan and stir over medium heat until hot and bubbly.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and add the chocolate, stirring slowly until smooth and silky. Add the vanilla and the salt.Taste and adjust the sweetness to your taste. Cool for about 15 minutes before frosting the cake.
Joan Nathan|Author Q&A

About Joan Nathan

Joan Nathan - The New American Cooking

Photo © Michael Lionstar

Joan Nathan was born in Providence, Rhode Island. She graduated from the University of Michigan with a master’s degree in French literature and earned a master’s in public administration from Harvard University. For three years she lived in Israel, where she worked for Mayor Teddy Kollek of Jerusalem. In 1974, working for Mayor Abraham Beame in New York, she cofounded the Ninth Avenue Food Festival. Ms. Nathan is a frequent contributor to The New York Times and other publications. She is the author of numerous books including Jewish Cooking in America and The New American Cooking, both of which won the James Beard Award and the IACP Award. She was the host of the nationally syndicated PBS television series Jewish Cooking in America with Joan Nathan, based on the book. The mother of three grown children, Ms. Nathan lives in Washington, D.C., and on Martha’s Vineyard with her husband, Allan Gerson.

www.joannathan.com

Joan Nathan is represented by Random House Speakers Bureau (www.rhspeakers.com).

Author Q&A

Q: THE NEW AMERICAN COOKING obviously required a lot of research, not to mention travel. How long have you been working on this book and what research was involved?
A:
I feel as if I have been working on this book all of my professional career. But really I have worked on it for the last five years. I first read and read, then planned trips around the country to get an idea of what people were cooking. In my everyday life I kept my eyes open to notice what was close to home. Then I wrote the book and tested the recipes.

What was unusual and exciting for me is that I had the honor of being chosen to be the guest curator of Food Culture USA at the Smithsonian Folklife Festival. The Festival, based on research for my book, made my book come alive even before it came out!

Q: Your cookbook captures the excitement of learning about new foods, markets, and restaurants. What new food innovation (or innovator) was one of your favorite discoveries?
A:
There were so many! How can I pick just one person?! I must confess that my favorites are always the unsung heroes who I have found around the country. For example, Ed LaDou in Los Angeles who invented California pizza and taught Wolfgang Puck how to make his pizza and Steve Herrell in Northampton, Massachusetts who invented the mix-ins for ice cream that Ben & Jerry later adopted.

Q: Did you stumble upon any finds that weren’t originally intended to be in the book?
A:
Lots of them. That’s what is so exciting about writing and researching–the discovery. I never thought, for example, how the portobello mushroom came into existence. After a little digging I found my answer. I had no idea how many Hmong people lived in the United States and what their food was like. Then I had a feast at the home of a Hmong family in Minnesota, and included the chicken curry with coconut milk, lime leaves, and hot pepper that I had during our meal in THE NEW AMERICAN COOKING.
.
Q: You met so many interesting people over the course of your research. Was there was experience that stood out from the rest.
A:
I went to the Ozark Mountains in Arkansas because I thought that surely was a place where nothing new was happening. There I met Marion Speak at a post office in Fox, Arkansas, population 28, at 8:00 a.m. one morning. She told me we could have breakfast together. After traveling in her pick-up truck on the rockiest road I have ever been on, we arrived at her home that she had physically built herself. Marion went into her garden and picked some arugula and other wild greens I would never have expected to see growing there and made me the best omelet I have ever tasted.

Q: Tell us about some of your crazy stories from the road.
A:
Again, there were so many! When I arrived in Hawaii, I met Alan Wong, one of the architects of Pacific Rim cuisine and chef at Alan Wong’s restaurant in Honolulu. The next thing I knew, it was 4:00 a.m. and I was in the midst of a fish auction surrounded by tuna in Honolulu. Another time, I was in northern Minnesota visiting a Native American family who took me into a canoe to harvest wild rice with them. I loved climbing into the culture of the Native Americans. Here I was thrashing the rice with a wooden stick. Another time I went to Patagonia, Arizona and spent a few days at a retreat for raw foodists. I also loved ferreting out the elderly Greek man who first invented the phyllo machine, which I write about on page 378 in THE NEW AMERICAN COOKING.

Q: What are some now commonly-used foods you found that are new to American cooking in the last forty years?
A:
So many–portobello mushrooms, mangoes, kiwis, sugar snap beans, wasabi, chick peas, and goat cheese to name a few. Of course, some of these foods were used in ethnic enclaves before. Each one has a fascinating story attached to it. For example, if Americans had not started traveling abroad around the time the food processor was invented, I wonder if hummus or pesto would have become so popular here.

Q: How do you predict American cooking will evolve over the next forty years?
A:
I think that organics will become more commonplace. In addition, I think that we will become an increasingly global cuisine by incorporating ingredients from everywhere on a local level, but growing them here from our increasingly multi-national population. Of course, items like coffee and chocolate will still come from abroad, but I think we will increasingly try to grow and cook food close to home.

Q: Do you see any of the latest diets, like low-carb, having a lasting effect on our food culture?
A:
People will always be on diets and I see trends continuing as long as there are people who don’t know how to appreciate good eating and sit down meals.

Q: You’re most well known for your Jewish cookbooks. What inspired this departure?
A:
I am American and Jewish. Now that I have learned so much about my Jewish background, as a journalist I felt ready to explore what has happened to American cuisine in the past forty years. It has been an extraordinary journey for me.

Q: What’s next for you?
A:
I want to spend some time giving back to the food world, trying to work to help people eat better. I also have another book up my sleeve.

Awards

Awards

SUBMITTED James Beard Award

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